Clean and big-wall climbing course
Period: 1-6 August 2020
Registration deadline: 18 July 2020
Location: Cheile Turzii and/or Vadu Crişului (TBD)
Instructors: Leslie Fucsko (main), Vasile Dumitrică (secondary)
Participants must:
- have basic experience with multi-pitch routes (rope-work, belays, etc.)
- be able to climb French 5b (rotpunkt)
Nice to have (not a must): basic aid-climbing knowledge
Maximum number of participants: 8
Main topics:
- Trad climbing basis (theory and practice)
- trad climbing equipment
- piton technique
- mobile protection technique
- belays and multi-pitch climbing techniques
- trad climbing grades
- ‘how to fall’ school (managing falls and fall potential)
- trad climbing test on equipped routes
- trad climbing test on unequipped or partially equipped routes (ideally multi-pitch)
- Big wall climbing basis (theory and practice)
- specific big wall equipment
- specific piton techniques
- mobile protection techniques
- big wall climbing grades (aid and clean aid)
- risk management, ‘no-fall’ zone and how to avoid the worst case scenario
- big wall climbing on equipped multi-pitch routes (practice)
- climbing on unequipped routes requiring full big wall equipment (practice)
- Extras
- At participants’ request, discussions on various themes, films screenings, etc. can be organized at the end of each day
- Training and nutrition
- Specifics of style and adventure terrain in Romania vs. rest of the world
- Rope solo techniques
- History of big wall climbing and world class accomplishments
Accommodation: Apart from a few nights that would (eventually) be spent on the wall, accommodation will be in self provided tents.
Personal equipment: every piece of equipment you have available. Helmet is mandatory!
Equipment offered by organizers: everything you don’t have
Speaker
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László (Leslie) FucskóClimber & guideLeslie is an alpine, big-wall and first ascents specialist who started climbing 43 years ago, in Romania. He has several major achievements in Patagonia, Europe, Africa, the Himalayas etc., having been nominated once for the Piolet d’Or and the Cristal FFME prize of the French Mountaineering Federation.
Among others he became a UIAGM mountain guide in France (1992), was the president of the Group de Haute Montagne (2005-2009), was part of the Piolet d’Or jury and has been involved in the professional formation of mountain guides in Morocco and Iran. In recent years, he has “focused primarily on organizing mountaineering courses and makes mountaineering movies on my various mountaineering experiences”.
More about him at http://www.valandre.com/blog/2015/04/15/leslie-fucsko/#more-1497